The majority are afraid of the sound of thunder (thunder). May be sensitive to all loud noises in particular. But storms are factors that intensify the noise, such as lightning, barometric changes, and so on. Ideally, all dogs could experience the storms of puppies in the best condition, so that most problems do not arise. Maybe it would be interesting, the new owner acquired a special sound recording (storms) and accustom your puppy to listen.
Some dogs suffer from both a storm that may come to jump out the window, hoping to escape the noise. Others seek refuge hiding below the "skirts" of its owner. And unfortunately, the owner with all good intentions, tries to comfort him, causing further damage to the problem because what you are doing is rewarding their behavior, and further confirm their fear. Do not forget to reward the "facts" and punishes "thought".
In any case, the right thing would be to ignore the dog or better still, to dance and sing with joy, setting an example of our attitude. At about William Campbell calls it: "Jolly Routine". Never use a correction or punishment. That will only cause more panic.
The therapeutic method to follow, would like any problem of phobia, fear is presented (a recording) to a minimum level and work from there. With many repetitions gradually rising in volume as progress. If possible it is during the season when storms are infrequent and can not break down the program. Exercise behavior, is to lose the work done so far.
Example: The dog is taught to sit or lie down, while listening to a recording at a very low intensity. You are given a little food every 30 sec. and Alagoas. Slowly going up the columns in each session, which will include a minimum of 20 attempts. If the dog reacts with excitement, is that it goes too fast. This is the dog stays relaxed. In case of an overrun (the dog shows fear), the sessions are finished for the day and will continue tomorrow at a safe level (below yesterday). Once you get past 30 to 60 sessions (depending on each dog) can start thinking in a total volume.
There are cases where the fear is caused initially by a particular sound (a bomb) and then associate it with other loud noises (like) that had not affected it (exhaust pipes, storms, airplanes, etc.).
Provided we know the noise that triggered the reaction, we must begin by the noise, to achieve better results.
The same procedure is used to treat phobias related to firecrackers or gunshots. All of them fall within the same type of phobia. But instead of recording, the device would be used authentic diminished by distance and sound damping mechanisms (cardboard boxes, towels, etc.). You can also use cotton in the ears of the dog or as an extreme case, tranquilizers.
Fear of loneliness "Separation Anxiety"
Dogs, like people, are social beings, meaning they need company. Children can be told to be left alone for any reason, but that his hopes will be short, the dog no. That not knowing what will happen, causes anxiety as they move to minutes, is becoming unbearable frustration.
And to vent, begins to tear, eating, barking, defecating, etc.. The feature that identifies this kind of fear is that one does when left alone. The dog that does any of these behaviors at other times, it is another kind of problem, so it will be resolved for a while, and that sooner or later will be reunited with its owner.
To help pass the time of separation with ease.
1. You can leave a bone to keep him busy for a while.
2. Be avoided to the maximum, all outputs which require the dog to be retained to their needs (to maintain their schedules). If the case is presented that it can take a friend, or better yet, leave a friend's house.
3. Be avoided exciting moments during the departure and return home. Example: Do not say goodbye. Remain passive even the last five minutes, sitting doing nothing and leave the house no more. Do not greet him back home. In order not to provoke the anticipation of greeting (biological clock) and excited early. Allow about ten minutes before heading towards the dog.
4. Avoid it can grab the last thing you touched (shoes, clothes, books, etc.). Smell that makes you feel closer
If the problem occurs, one day (without explanation "apparent") because I had never happened. Then it should be treated as though he had never experienced separation. That is, start from scratch. Keeping out of your reach all that the site destroyed or dirty, wipe the area with vinegar and water to 50%.
Fear of people and dogs
When there is a lack of socialization (lack of contact) at an early age or who has experienced a traumatic experience with a person or dog then the dog can heal emotionally to the person or dog that frightened him in his day, and also eventually generalize to all of its species or at least with those who resemble him. The treatment to follow would be similar to any of the other types of phobias.
When it comes to solving phobias toward other dogs, the thing is sometimes very complicated, because we need the cooperation of other dogs they know to be under control. In these cases as quickly as it would join a job club that practice this type of problem. All dogs are under control, and the instructor may be evaluating the responses of the dog and give advice on how to continue treating the rest of the week at home.
In regard to socialize with people, we must always remember that at any phobia, "impose" the presence of force is counterproductive. The gradual and consistent procedure is best. In extreme cases use a tranquilizer.
Submissive wetting
Another way of expressing fear, is to urinate. You have to discard the puppies very excitable, such as hunting, which is urine receiving excitement when greeting someone gives them attention or when greeting an adult dog. This "problem" is part physical and part psychological. As with age, your body is able to retain the "valve" closed. Although it may end up developing a real problem when the owner punished for wetting, aggravating the situation. Then it is another kind of problem. Now urinates out of fear.
To solve the problem, we first find out who are the ones that cause the behavior and at which point the game starts the behavior. Perhaps only a question of reducing the intensity of the encounter. Example: Speaking softly, non-threatening posture, avoiding a direct look, offer an outstretched hand (palm up), slow movements, sitting on the floor (legs crossed) and the first attempt to want to approach the dog, stand still, while will reward its owner.
A few sessions will be sufficient to notice improvement. Can also be used in some cases, mild punishment, such as getting a "spray water on urination. But as long as you do not know where it comes from and occurring at the same time as the performance. In case of urine, being in arms, when the assistant throws the trickle of water, the person holding the dog must pretend to be surprised by the water and the dog falls out of the arms.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)

No comments:
Post a Comment