In this type of rescue dogs simply demonstrating once again, that may go beyond its limits by making such a bailout, no matter what the land as well regardless of whether your life is in danger or not. This activity course is developed on land covered by snow, which are mostly frequented by tourists, as the most common activity is skiing.
Skiers often unimaginable really at risk, such as a landslide or avalanche. In these areas where skiers enjoy their activity, are measuring equipment that can detect small movements or warn that anticipate the possibility of an avalanche, why not allowing entry to the ski slopes. Unfortunately often emerges unpredictably, when the weather changed suddenly, tourists and skiers are buried under a huge blanket of snow.
From that moment, the dogs involved in these types of bailouts into action.
This type of search is one of the few special relief it needs the immediate participation of the dog. The dogs are accompanied by sounders and shovelers teams, all working simultaneously, although the dog is a priority activity since, because of their speed to exploit the land in addition to their ability to smell, place it as the lead in the search because its mission is to find victims buried under the snow to rescue them and the drags can be started immediately for first aid work.
The dogs used in this type of bailouts with Belgian Shepherd Malinois and German Shepherd.
The selection of these races is justified by physical conditions of these dogs: in addition to its great ability to smell must have a really privileged anatomical construction and strong as they walk in the snow is really difficult and tiring.
These dogs adapt quickly to low temperatures, because among its fur nature provides them with a kind of wool which serves as a coat, the fur of the fingers are thickened and spends less, their pads are hardened and so it seemingly simple, avoid freezing their feet.
The only protection that nature could not provide it is to your eyes. This needs the hand of man, which should put an eye drop to protect it from ultraviolet rays when the days of rescue work takes several hours.
The training of these dogs is always held in the same mountains and snow, where the trail is the main discipline exercised. Watching these dogs track people buried under the snow is really touching. The snow or frozen water, it keeps perfectly the emanation produced by a failing state body. The victim of this disaster to be in a life or death situation, produces physical alterations in the tissues, accompanied by the externalization of particles sweat of the person buried at the site, as well as the heat produced by a living body and the given temperature.
These particles come to the surface due to temperature change. To explain in a simpler term, they are more "hot" environment and therefore are easier to catch the dog. To this we adding to them the breath of the individual (obviously in the case of living persons), easily recognizable to the dogs.
The weather conditions are really incidents in these types of searches.
Once located the disaster area, the dog starts to bark and "scratch" with their hands quickly and almost desperate the location of the victim.
Home Training
This training is conducted simultaneously with the discipline. When the dog begins its training in discipline, work only on the street. This is because within the household would suffer a great distraction and too rebellious note that it is their "territory", is where he sleeps, eats, plays and above all, where is the master of the house and the "master" of their owners.
Given that the discipline training lasts three months, after the second month, as a result of that so far as said before the student has worked on the street, you begin to alter a kind of discipline within the household and the another class in public. This is because the dog often tends to behave correctly interpret the front door outward, and inward from the door as usual.
It is here then where education begins at home. The dogs are so far breaking such plants, furniture, clothing, shoes, causing wells and destroying gardens, etc.
Nevertheless, this is the simplest stage for the dog and the instructor, which is simply to incorporate the discipline as a whole (already been educated by 70% taking into account that has two months of work, three) indoors, to make students understand that within the household also should work and behave in the street.
The task is to signal to the dog all that is broken or damaged due to "his work", show strongly disliked, and exert pressure on the choke collar so that the "capricious and destructive" that students understand not must return to repeat such action.
Another thing you must learn the dog is not leaking like crazy when he finds the front door open, you have to be keeping it to not just "disappear", or tie him or lock him when to open the gate to enter the car, situations which are often troublesome and worrisome.
Another case is for example, having closed the door of the living room or kitchen "because it gets in and I can not get more ..." people said. You can have all the open doors of his house and never enter the dog, unless you directed otherwise.
This training will surely help you to enjoy your pet, that living with your dog is a company, like nature marked him "the eternal and faithful friend of man."
Given that the discipline training lasts three months, after the second month, as a result of that so far as said before the student has worked on the street, you begin to alter a kind of discipline within the household and the another class in public. This is because the dog often tends to behave correctly interpret the front door outward, and inward from the door as usual.
It is here then where education begins at home. The dogs are so far breaking such plants, furniture, clothing, shoes, causing wells and destroying gardens, etc.
Nevertheless, this is the simplest stage for the dog and the instructor, which is simply to incorporate the discipline as a whole (already been educated by 70% taking into account that has two months of work, three) indoors, to make students understand that within the household also should work and behave in the street.
The task is to signal to the dog all that is broken or damaged due to "his work", show strongly disliked, and exert pressure on the choke collar so that the "capricious and destructive" that students understand not must return to repeat such action.
Another thing you must learn the dog is not leaking like crazy when he finds the front door open, you have to be keeping it to not just "disappear", or tie him or lock him when to open the gate to enter the car, situations which are often troublesome and worrisome.
Another case is for example, having closed the door of the living room or kitchen "because it gets in and I can not get more ..." people said. You can have all the open doors of his house and never enter the dog, unless you directed otherwise.
This training will surely help you to enjoy your pet, that living with your dog is a company, like nature marked him "the eternal and faithful friend of man."
Dog Senses
Hearing: Hearing, almost a radar
l canine ear hears sounds, undetectable by humans. The explanation for this theory comes from the following definitions: man between 16,000 and 20,000 captures sound vibrations per second, while the dog receives between 70,000 and 100,000 vibrations.
In turn, the dog's ears have more mobility. Each has seventeen different muscles, and a complex network that enables change of position and locate the source of sound.
The dogs ear functions as a "radar" that stores and classifies different vibration. Some of you are nice and some not so, sounds like too much treble.
Smell: A precision mechanism
The dog has two hundred million olfactory cells. The man just five million. The muzzle of the dog serves as a true precision instrument, which serves to investigate everything perfectly.
In many cases not need to see something or someone to identify or know that it can do so only using your nose. His nose is actually a "database". When you smell something that catches your eye, this place holds in the air for several seconds, record what interests you and stores it. Thanks to the chemical messages (pheromones) that records, you can tell from a distance for example, if another animal in the vicinity is another dog, detecting whether male or female, if a cat or bird, etc.
Touch: An incredible sensitivity
Just born, the dog does not hear nor see, but through touch arrives at his mother's milk and warns that supply heat siblings. The pads are so great sensitivity that can detect even the smallest ground vibration.
Taste: Companion of the smell?
Among the senses of the dog, "taste" is the least investigated. So far it is related to smell. Can preferences for taste or other, depend on the odor that emanates from the object under investigation. If you like the swallows, however if you dislike it rejects.
Vista: A blue and red picture
The view is not the most important sense of the dog. However their distance vision is very good. The dog can get a glimpse movements of 350m, but his view is not nearly as effective.
The eyes of the dogs are farther apart than those of men. This gives a viewing angle of between 250 and 290 degrees, the man does not exceed 210.
Many suppose that the vision is entirely canine black and white. Not so. The eye cells of these animals perceive colors glitter and more or less intense. As the dog has fewer cone cells than men, their vision is limited to blue and red. This disadvantage is offset by the effectiveness of night vision. When it gets dark your pupils dilate more than human, and therefore receive more light.
l canine ear hears sounds, undetectable by humans. The explanation for this theory comes from the following definitions: man between 16,000 and 20,000 captures sound vibrations per second, while the dog receives between 70,000 and 100,000 vibrations.
In turn, the dog's ears have more mobility. Each has seventeen different muscles, and a complex network that enables change of position and locate the source of sound.
The dogs ear functions as a "radar" that stores and classifies different vibration. Some of you are nice and some not so, sounds like too much treble.
Smell: A precision mechanism
The dog has two hundred million olfactory cells. The man just five million. The muzzle of the dog serves as a true precision instrument, which serves to investigate everything perfectly.
In many cases not need to see something or someone to identify or know that it can do so only using your nose. His nose is actually a "database". When you smell something that catches your eye, this place holds in the air for several seconds, record what interests you and stores it. Thanks to the chemical messages (pheromones) that records, you can tell from a distance for example, if another animal in the vicinity is another dog, detecting whether male or female, if a cat or bird, etc.
Touch: An incredible sensitivity
Just born, the dog does not hear nor see, but through touch arrives at his mother's milk and warns that supply heat siblings. The pads are so great sensitivity that can detect even the smallest ground vibration.
Taste: Companion of the smell?
Among the senses of the dog, "taste" is the least investigated. So far it is related to smell. Can preferences for taste or other, depend on the odor that emanates from the object under investigation. If you like the swallows, however if you dislike it rejects.
Vista: A blue and red picture
The view is not the most important sense of the dog. However their distance vision is very good. The dog can get a glimpse movements of 350m, but his view is not nearly as effective.
The eyes of the dogs are farther apart than those of men. This gives a viewing angle of between 250 and 290 degrees, the man does not exceed 210.
Many suppose that the vision is entirely canine black and white. Not so. The eye cells of these animals perceive colors glitter and more or less intense. As the dog has fewer cone cells than men, their vision is limited to blue and red. This disadvantage is offset by the effectiveness of night vision. When it gets dark your pupils dilate more than human, and therefore receive more light.
Rescue Dog
The dog may justify one or as many times as is required of why the inseparable friend of man for thousands of years, as well as he can demonstrate "why" man must constantly resort to it as principal and irreplaceable partner.
The case of the "rescue dogs" are the ideal example of these concepts, due for example, in case of earthquakes, explosions, or any accidents which cause a landslide of rubble, nothing would serve the efforts of many people if they do not have at their side to their true hero: "A Dog of rubble."
The dog rescue people buried under rubble was first used in Britain during the Second World War to find people buried under the remains of buildings following an air raid.
The dog in these cases an essential aid, through their performance with a huge delivery, courage and a heroic attitude, often difficult to match by humans.
The rescue dog is also developing its work in disaster train or air, or because a collapse of a mine or construction site.
You must ask Are there devices that can detect noises or sounds of low intensity? The answer is yes. But it happens that these devices require for their effective functioning almost absolute silence, so it is virtually impossible to give these conditions for debris cleanup. In contrast, the dog can work not only to weather any adversity, but also as the machines used (cranes, jackhammers and bulldozers) do their work in the affected area causing a lot of noise, smoke and vibrations in the soil and debris material.
In addition, rescue dogs are not only victims of these accidents but also indicate whether they found the person is alive or dead, "brand" differently. This though incrible but real. electronic technology has not been able to achieve so far.
How do they work?
The work is done in teams. Each team member is assigned to rescue a dog, they always work together as a pair technique. The guide is well aware of the dog, and because it can interpret the rubble, so it is totally focused on their reactions and alert to every movement.
Similarly, the dog must have absolute confidence in his guidance to follow him everywhere, whatever the terrain. This of course requires a physical training exercises accompanied by discipline (together, stop, etc..), But is geared mostly to the track, or the search itself. There are several techniques to learn, but the most commonly used is to familiarize the dog with an object or toy until the dog proves a Entus to find him when the man (partner work) takes it away from view or conceal it. First the master, then one and then several people, hide the toy.
When the dog finds him "mark" their supposed "victims" barking and pawing the ground.
To get your "License to Dog Rescue dogs must take examinations in accordance with the procedures of each country, the first requirement, found several people hiding without seeing them as they went into hiding (see them would make it easier to hide the meeting).
Dogs used must have a nose, character and temperament to be balanced and show sufficient energy (like working).
The breeds most commonly used are those belonging to the group of pastors, especially the German Shepherd.
The case of the "rescue dogs" are the ideal example of these concepts, due for example, in case of earthquakes, explosions, or any accidents which cause a landslide of rubble, nothing would serve the efforts of many people if they do not have at their side to their true hero: "A Dog of rubble."
The dog rescue people buried under rubble was first used in Britain during the Second World War to find people buried under the remains of buildings following an air raid.
The dog in these cases an essential aid, through their performance with a huge delivery, courage and a heroic attitude, often difficult to match by humans.
The rescue dog is also developing its work in disaster train or air, or because a collapse of a mine or construction site.
You must ask Are there devices that can detect noises or sounds of low intensity? The answer is yes. But it happens that these devices require for their effective functioning almost absolute silence, so it is virtually impossible to give these conditions for debris cleanup. In contrast, the dog can work not only to weather any adversity, but also as the machines used (cranes, jackhammers and bulldozers) do their work in the affected area causing a lot of noise, smoke and vibrations in the soil and debris material.
In addition, rescue dogs are not only victims of these accidents but also indicate whether they found the person is alive or dead, "brand" differently. This though incrible but real. electronic technology has not been able to achieve so far.
How do they work?
The work is done in teams. Each team member is assigned to rescue a dog, they always work together as a pair technique. The guide is well aware of the dog, and because it can interpret the rubble, so it is totally focused on their reactions and alert to every movement.
Similarly, the dog must have absolute confidence in his guidance to follow him everywhere, whatever the terrain. This of course requires a physical training exercises accompanied by discipline (together, stop, etc..), But is geared mostly to the track, or the search itself. There are several techniques to learn, but the most commonly used is to familiarize the dog with an object or toy until the dog proves a Entus to find him when the man (partner work) takes it away from view or conceal it. First the master, then one and then several people, hide the toy.
When the dog finds him "mark" their supposed "victims" barking and pawing the ground.
To get your "License to Dog Rescue dogs must take examinations in accordance with the procedures of each country, the first requirement, found several people hiding without seeing them as they went into hiding (see them would make it easier to hide the meeting).
Dogs used must have a nose, character and temperament to be balanced and show sufficient energy (like working).
The breeds most commonly used are those belonging to the group of pastors, especially the German Shepherd.
Guard Dog Training
There are many misconceptions that people have about these types of dogs. In a first step, it is believed that the guard dog trained to bite is a machine that can reach target anyone, including family members with whom we live.
It is very common also see if I will stop being affectionate with the owners. Some say they do not want to teach the dog to bite because they have young kids or babies. Others think that because they have a German Shepherd, a Rottweiler or a Doberman, take home a "Bengal tiger" and nobody will enter: "No, Sultan we will teach him not to bite because they do not stop after more the other day and almost took the soder more kills, so that if I was, if not ... "
And of course, permanently soder fear Sultan showed him since he was a puppy, and then the "supposed watchdog" is agrandadísimo ... with Soder, gardener, painter, and so on.
Now, following the example of Sultan (the bars across the front of the house all the dogs are "cute"), poor if one day you have the misfortune of someone you desire, enter your home if found with money , jewelry, etc.. and run into a real criminal who is forcing the front door, Sultan listens and goes to hit him as usual with the famous "tiger", but something happens that is not in the script: the malefactor enters and when the dog is within reach, you hit a kick in the ribs, or breaks his head with a rifle butt with a 9 mm pistol., and then ... Watchdog disappeared!.
Other comment for example: Did you see the dog that killed the owner? And yes, it's true. But in this case must be into account few things:
What treatment was given from puppy owner?
You always had tied with a string of 50 cm. always in the back of his house full of fleas, ticks, etc.. and totally isolated from society?
Do you daily and severely punished with a broomstick for barking too much and bother the neighbors?
Have you ever shared a ride with your pet?
Are you gave warmth and shared games with him since the dog came home?
And surely all or many of these responses will be negative, unfortunately, but of course, the only thing people hears is that "the dog killed the owner." Please! What owner talking about?.
All this creates a terrible confusion about what a guard dog. So I feel a professional obligation to make that clear.
A guard dog is:
First, was trained in obedience, getting through this training, balance in their temperament, their character and control over all things, subordination.
Through this, how to differentiate a passive aggressive attitude (not the same person who stops to ask the time that a person who stops in front of us and pulls out a gun and intimidate us).
Know where you have to bite that is biting situations, and why.
It is simultaneously attentive to the commands of his master, so that when he orders it, stop biting.
It should be noted some very important things, such as any dog not used to "guard". You must have an even temperament and a firm and stable character.
That the guard dog is a dog "bad," is a dog trained to care for the home and family.
Guard Dog Training
All watchdog should start work in advance with proper discipline. Once advanced in learning, that is when a dog feels subordinate to the master, and is clear that he is a member of the family and not the homeowner, you start to teach caring home, their belongings and above all, to the family.
During the stage of obedience, the trainer should constantly evaluate their temperament and must begin making practices of distrust. Having achieved a total control over the student, will be teaching her to bite.
Most important in this type of training is to not only learn to bite, but also, to calm down and release when directed. Keep in mind that any practice of excessive aggressiveness leads to a large concentration of adrenaline in the blood of our dog and inhibits all sensation of pain.
The stage, the offender and the situation itself of "assault and violence" must be as realistic as possible, to avoid any confusion d portion of our dog at the time there is an event not simulated. The coach who is preparing a guard dog should be clear about what you are doing, since this could result in irreparable psychophysical damage your pet, so obviously it should do a professional job.
The dog must learn to bite through their natural instinct "prey" and also to maintain strong bite and hold until of course be ordered.
With a gun with bullets course "blank", you are making repeated tests of reaction to this type of detonation, starting from a distance not less than twenty yards, until you get to shoot at close range.
The dog should not fear to acknowledge the shots, and if this happens this would be a serious problem, which surely will be solved, but will require more time than usual.
The guard dog must be to walk the streets always with a leash attached, never let go. If you want to take your dog loose, can not have a guard dog. If you think you can take your dog loose and your pet is also an excellent guard dog, I must inform you that unfortunately do not share his opinion.
It is very common also see if I will stop being affectionate with the owners. Some say they do not want to teach the dog to bite because they have young kids or babies. Others think that because they have a German Shepherd, a Rottweiler or a Doberman, take home a "Bengal tiger" and nobody will enter: "No, Sultan we will teach him not to bite because they do not stop after more the other day and almost took the soder more kills, so that if I was, if not ... "
And of course, permanently soder fear Sultan showed him since he was a puppy, and then the "supposed watchdog" is agrandadísimo ... with Soder, gardener, painter, and so on.
Now, following the example of Sultan (the bars across the front of the house all the dogs are "cute"), poor if one day you have the misfortune of someone you desire, enter your home if found with money , jewelry, etc.. and run into a real criminal who is forcing the front door, Sultan listens and goes to hit him as usual with the famous "tiger", but something happens that is not in the script: the malefactor enters and when the dog is within reach, you hit a kick in the ribs, or breaks his head with a rifle butt with a 9 mm pistol., and then ... Watchdog disappeared!.
Other comment for example: Did you see the dog that killed the owner? And yes, it's true. But in this case must be into account few things:
What treatment was given from puppy owner?
You always had tied with a string of 50 cm. always in the back of his house full of fleas, ticks, etc.. and totally isolated from society?
Do you daily and severely punished with a broomstick for barking too much and bother the neighbors?
Have you ever shared a ride with your pet?
Are you gave warmth and shared games with him since the dog came home?
And surely all or many of these responses will be negative, unfortunately, but of course, the only thing people hears is that "the dog killed the owner." Please! What owner talking about?.
All this creates a terrible confusion about what a guard dog. So I feel a professional obligation to make that clear.
A guard dog is:
First, was trained in obedience, getting through this training, balance in their temperament, their character and control over all things, subordination.
Through this, how to differentiate a passive aggressive attitude (not the same person who stops to ask the time that a person who stops in front of us and pulls out a gun and intimidate us).
Know where you have to bite that is biting situations, and why.
It is simultaneously attentive to the commands of his master, so that when he orders it, stop biting.
It should be noted some very important things, such as any dog not used to "guard". You must have an even temperament and a firm and stable character.
That the guard dog is a dog "bad," is a dog trained to care for the home and family.
Guard Dog Training
All watchdog should start work in advance with proper discipline. Once advanced in learning, that is when a dog feels subordinate to the master, and is clear that he is a member of the family and not the homeowner, you start to teach caring home, their belongings and above all, to the family.
During the stage of obedience, the trainer should constantly evaluate their temperament and must begin making practices of distrust. Having achieved a total control over the student, will be teaching her to bite.
Most important in this type of training is to not only learn to bite, but also, to calm down and release when directed. Keep in mind that any practice of excessive aggressiveness leads to a large concentration of adrenaline in the blood of our dog and inhibits all sensation of pain.
The stage, the offender and the situation itself of "assault and violence" must be as realistic as possible, to avoid any confusion d portion of our dog at the time there is an event not simulated. The coach who is preparing a guard dog should be clear about what you are doing, since this could result in irreparable psychophysical damage your pet, so obviously it should do a professional job.
The dog must learn to bite through their natural instinct "prey" and also to maintain strong bite and hold until of course be ordered.
With a gun with bullets course "blank", you are making repeated tests of reaction to this type of detonation, starting from a distance not less than twenty yards, until you get to shoot at close range.
The dog should not fear to acknowledge the shots, and if this happens this would be a serious problem, which surely will be solved, but will require more time than usual.
The guard dog must be to walk the streets always with a leash attached, never let go. If you want to take your dog loose, can not have a guard dog. If you think you can take your dog loose and your pet is also an excellent guard dog, I must inform you that unfortunately do not share his opinion.
Dog Phobias of objects or situations
The majority are afraid of the sound of thunder (thunder). May be sensitive to all loud noises in particular. But storms are factors that intensify the noise, such as lightning, barometric changes, and so on. Ideally, all dogs could experience the storms of puppies in the best condition, so that most problems do not arise. Maybe it would be interesting, the new owner acquired a special sound recording (storms) and accustom your puppy to listen.
Some dogs suffer from both a storm that may come to jump out the window, hoping to escape the noise. Others seek refuge hiding below the "skirts" of its owner. And unfortunately, the owner with all good intentions, tries to comfort him, causing further damage to the problem because what you are doing is rewarding their behavior, and further confirm their fear. Do not forget to reward the "facts" and punishes "thought".
In any case, the right thing would be to ignore the dog or better still, to dance and sing with joy, setting an example of our attitude. At about William Campbell calls it: "Jolly Routine". Never use a correction or punishment. That will only cause more panic.
The therapeutic method to follow, would like any problem of phobia, fear is presented (a recording) to a minimum level and work from there. With many repetitions gradually rising in volume as progress. If possible it is during the season when storms are infrequent and can not break down the program. Exercise behavior, is to lose the work done so far.
Example: The dog is taught to sit or lie down, while listening to a recording at a very low intensity. You are given a little food every 30 sec. and Alagoas. Slowly going up the columns in each session, which will include a minimum of 20 attempts. If the dog reacts with excitement, is that it goes too fast. This is the dog stays relaxed. In case of an overrun (the dog shows fear), the sessions are finished for the day and will continue tomorrow at a safe level (below yesterday). Once you get past 30 to 60 sessions (depending on each dog) can start thinking in a total volume.
There are cases where the fear is caused initially by a particular sound (a bomb) and then associate it with other loud noises (like) that had not affected it (exhaust pipes, storms, airplanes, etc.).
Provided we know the noise that triggered the reaction, we must begin by the noise, to achieve better results.
The same procedure is used to treat phobias related to firecrackers or gunshots. All of them fall within the same type of phobia. But instead of recording, the device would be used authentic diminished by distance and sound damping mechanisms (cardboard boxes, towels, etc.). You can also use cotton in the ears of the dog or as an extreme case, tranquilizers.
Fear of loneliness "Separation Anxiety"
Dogs, like people, are social beings, meaning they need company. Children can be told to be left alone for any reason, but that his hopes will be short, the dog no. That not knowing what will happen, causes anxiety as they move to minutes, is becoming unbearable frustration.
And to vent, begins to tear, eating, barking, defecating, etc.. The feature that identifies this kind of fear is that one does when left alone. The dog that does any of these behaviors at other times, it is another kind of problem, so it will be resolved for a while, and that sooner or later will be reunited with its owner.
To help pass the time of separation with ease.
1. You can leave a bone to keep him busy for a while.
2. Be avoided to the maximum, all outputs which require the dog to be retained to their needs (to maintain their schedules). If the case is presented that it can take a friend, or better yet, leave a friend's house.
3. Be avoided exciting moments during the departure and return home. Example: Do not say goodbye. Remain passive even the last five minutes, sitting doing nothing and leave the house no more. Do not greet him back home. In order not to provoke the anticipation of greeting (biological clock) and excited early. Allow about ten minutes before heading towards the dog.
4. Avoid it can grab the last thing you touched (shoes, clothes, books, etc.). Smell that makes you feel closer
If the problem occurs, one day (without explanation "apparent") because I had never happened. Then it should be treated as though he had never experienced separation. That is, start from scratch. Keeping out of your reach all that the site destroyed or dirty, wipe the area with vinegar and water to 50%.
Fear of people and dogs
When there is a lack of socialization (lack of contact) at an early age or who has experienced a traumatic experience with a person or dog then the dog can heal emotionally to the person or dog that frightened him in his day, and also eventually generalize to all of its species or at least with those who resemble him. The treatment to follow would be similar to any of the other types of phobias.
When it comes to solving phobias toward other dogs, the thing is sometimes very complicated, because we need the cooperation of other dogs they know to be under control. In these cases as quickly as it would join a job club that practice this type of problem. All dogs are under control, and the instructor may be evaluating the responses of the dog and give advice on how to continue treating the rest of the week at home.
In regard to socialize with people, we must always remember that at any phobia, "impose" the presence of force is counterproductive. The gradual and consistent procedure is best. In extreme cases use a tranquilizer.
Submissive wetting
Another way of expressing fear, is to urinate. You have to discard the puppies very excitable, such as hunting, which is urine receiving excitement when greeting someone gives them attention or when greeting an adult dog. This "problem" is part physical and part psychological. As with age, your body is able to retain the "valve" closed. Although it may end up developing a real problem when the owner punished for wetting, aggravating the situation. Then it is another kind of problem. Now urinates out of fear.
To solve the problem, we first find out who are the ones that cause the behavior and at which point the game starts the behavior. Perhaps only a question of reducing the intensity of the encounter. Example: Speaking softly, non-threatening posture, avoiding a direct look, offer an outstretched hand (palm up), slow movements, sitting on the floor (legs crossed) and the first attempt to want to approach the dog, stand still, while will reward its owner.
A few sessions will be sufficient to notice improvement. Can also be used in some cases, mild punishment, such as getting a "spray water on urination. But as long as you do not know where it comes from and occurring at the same time as the performance. In case of urine, being in arms, when the assistant throws the trickle of water, the person holding the dog must pretend to be surprised by the water and the dog falls out of the arms.
Some dogs suffer from both a storm that may come to jump out the window, hoping to escape the noise. Others seek refuge hiding below the "skirts" of its owner. And unfortunately, the owner with all good intentions, tries to comfort him, causing further damage to the problem because what you are doing is rewarding their behavior, and further confirm their fear. Do not forget to reward the "facts" and punishes "thought".
In any case, the right thing would be to ignore the dog or better still, to dance and sing with joy, setting an example of our attitude. At about William Campbell calls it: "Jolly Routine". Never use a correction or punishment. That will only cause more panic.
The therapeutic method to follow, would like any problem of phobia, fear is presented (a recording) to a minimum level and work from there. With many repetitions gradually rising in volume as progress. If possible it is during the season when storms are infrequent and can not break down the program. Exercise behavior, is to lose the work done so far.
Example: The dog is taught to sit or lie down, while listening to a recording at a very low intensity. You are given a little food every 30 sec. and Alagoas. Slowly going up the columns in each session, which will include a minimum of 20 attempts. If the dog reacts with excitement, is that it goes too fast. This is the dog stays relaxed. In case of an overrun (the dog shows fear), the sessions are finished for the day and will continue tomorrow at a safe level (below yesterday). Once you get past 30 to 60 sessions (depending on each dog) can start thinking in a total volume.
There are cases where the fear is caused initially by a particular sound (a bomb) and then associate it with other loud noises (like) that had not affected it (exhaust pipes, storms, airplanes, etc.).
Provided we know the noise that triggered the reaction, we must begin by the noise, to achieve better results.
The same procedure is used to treat phobias related to firecrackers or gunshots. All of them fall within the same type of phobia. But instead of recording, the device would be used authentic diminished by distance and sound damping mechanisms (cardboard boxes, towels, etc.). You can also use cotton in the ears of the dog or as an extreme case, tranquilizers.
Fear of loneliness "Separation Anxiety"
Dogs, like people, are social beings, meaning they need company. Children can be told to be left alone for any reason, but that his hopes will be short, the dog no. That not knowing what will happen, causes anxiety as they move to minutes, is becoming unbearable frustration.
And to vent, begins to tear, eating, barking, defecating, etc.. The feature that identifies this kind of fear is that one does when left alone. The dog that does any of these behaviors at other times, it is another kind of problem, so it will be resolved for a while, and that sooner or later will be reunited with its owner.
To help pass the time of separation with ease.
1. You can leave a bone to keep him busy for a while.
2. Be avoided to the maximum, all outputs which require the dog to be retained to their needs (to maintain their schedules). If the case is presented that it can take a friend, or better yet, leave a friend's house.
3. Be avoided exciting moments during the departure and return home. Example: Do not say goodbye. Remain passive even the last five minutes, sitting doing nothing and leave the house no more. Do not greet him back home. In order not to provoke the anticipation of greeting (biological clock) and excited early. Allow about ten minutes before heading towards the dog.
4. Avoid it can grab the last thing you touched (shoes, clothes, books, etc.). Smell that makes you feel closer
If the problem occurs, one day (without explanation "apparent") because I had never happened. Then it should be treated as though he had never experienced separation. That is, start from scratch. Keeping out of your reach all that the site destroyed or dirty, wipe the area with vinegar and water to 50%.
Fear of people and dogs
When there is a lack of socialization (lack of contact) at an early age or who has experienced a traumatic experience with a person or dog then the dog can heal emotionally to the person or dog that frightened him in his day, and also eventually generalize to all of its species or at least with those who resemble him. The treatment to follow would be similar to any of the other types of phobias.
When it comes to solving phobias toward other dogs, the thing is sometimes very complicated, because we need the cooperation of other dogs they know to be under control. In these cases as quickly as it would join a job club that practice this type of problem. All dogs are under control, and the instructor may be evaluating the responses of the dog and give advice on how to continue treating the rest of the week at home.
In regard to socialize with people, we must always remember that at any phobia, "impose" the presence of force is counterproductive. The gradual and consistent procedure is best. In extreme cases use a tranquilizer.
Submissive wetting
Another way of expressing fear, is to urinate. You have to discard the puppies very excitable, such as hunting, which is urine receiving excitement when greeting someone gives them attention or when greeting an adult dog. This "problem" is part physical and part psychological. As with age, your body is able to retain the "valve" closed. Although it may end up developing a real problem when the owner punished for wetting, aggravating the situation. Then it is another kind of problem. Now urinates out of fear.
To solve the problem, we first find out who are the ones that cause the behavior and at which point the game starts the behavior. Perhaps only a question of reducing the intensity of the encounter. Example: Speaking softly, non-threatening posture, avoiding a direct look, offer an outstretched hand (palm up), slow movements, sitting on the floor (legs crossed) and the first attempt to want to approach the dog, stand still, while will reward its owner.
A few sessions will be sufficient to notice improvement. Can also be used in some cases, mild punishment, such as getting a "spray water on urination. But as long as you do not know where it comes from and occurring at the same time as the performance. In case of urine, being in arms, when the assistant throws the trickle of water, the person holding the dog must pretend to be surprised by the water and the dog falls out of the arms.
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